VISIT LADAKH —» Trekking in Ladakh » Minimum Impact Trekking » Cultural Impact

Cultural Impact

Interacting with Ladakhis
It is inevitable that you'll leave some impression of your culture by visiting Ladakh; instead of just consuming the country like another product, try to give something back. Tourists are in a powerful position to present a more balanced picture of life in the West and you are the ones who should actively speak out when you see something being done for the benefit of tourists which is obviously harmful or degrading to the local environment or culture. However, unless you make an effort to communicate, all that the Ladakhis will see is yet another rich tourist on holiday - probably an inaccurate picture of someone not particularly well off by Western standards, who has worked extremely hard to pay for a trip out to Ladakh and who cares for and admires the country and its people. You will get the most out of your visit if you travel in small groups, allow lots of time to learn and try to be constantly aware. Although many Ladakhis speak good English, do try to learn a few words of Ladakhi as this will be greatly appreciated and will underline the importance of their language. When telling somebody about your home country talk about the problems as well as the good things. The Ladakhis get a rose-tinted image of the West through the media so it is important to put across a balanced view of what life is really like in a 'developed' country. Most Ladakhis have no idea about the environmental and social costs of living in the West, and the extent of poverty, homelessness, alienation and mental illness. Things that Ladakhis take for granted, Westerners will actively seek out and pay more for: such as local, organic food and methods of natural health care. Unlike Ladakhis, few Westerners are privileged enough to own their own land and even fewer produce their own food; we don't even know how to. If you are asked how much you earn, put it in context by explaining that almost half of your income goes on paying for somewhere to live, say how much a week's supply of groceries will cost or how much it would cost to travel a short distance on a local bus.
Interaction with the Ladakhis should be a two-way process. There is much they can teach the West about community, local self-reliance and ways of living simpler, less intrusive and more compassionate lives. A holiday is the perfect excuse for learning.

• Encourage local pride - Express an interest in all things Ladakhi and explain why you've come all this way and spent all that money to come to their country. Try to eat local food, adapt to local practices and use local services so that you can experience the culture at fIrst hand. Make a point of letting the people know what you like about it: if you have chosen your guesthouse because it has a Ladakhi toilet or solar-heated water, tell the owners.

• Dress and behave modestly - Too many trekkers unwittingly insult the Ladakhis by the way they are dressed, although complaints are never heard because they are too polite. It's very easy to respect local customs by not revealing your legs, shoulders, stomachs or backs. Men should always wear a shirt and trousers; shorts are not appreciated. Women should wear loose trousers or skirts below the knee and tops that cover their shoulders, stomach and back. Bright colours and body-revealing lycra are offensive to Ladakhis. If you see someone dressed inappropriately, please bring it to their attention. Never bathe in the nude; men should wear shorts and women should be more discreet and always wear at least shorts and t-shirt.

• Respect local etiquette - Ladakhis have different ways of doing things and by following these simple guidelines you will avoid causing offence. The most useful word to learn is Julay which can be used at any time of the day to greet people, say goodbye or to thank someone. As you trek through villages you will be greeted by everyone in this manner and it is polite to do likewise. When offered something it is polite to give a couple of insincere refusals before accepting. Use both hands to receive things. If you really don't want something you may have to say 'no' two or three times. If you are pointing at something use your whole hand rather than just your fInger. The feet are considered unclean, so don't point them at people or step over anything such as people, food, tables or religious articles. Similarly, if you have your legs outstretched Ladakhis will be loath to step over them, so move them out of the way or, preferably, keep them folded under you if you're seated on the floor. Religious objects, including anything that contains pictures of religious objects (postcards or books), should be kept high off the floor. In most rooms there is a subtle seating arrangement with the place of honour usually furthest from the door and close to the stove. You may be encouraged to sit at or near the seat of honour but it is polite to sit a little further down. When in public do not display your affection for others by holding hands, hugging or kissing. This can easily offend or embarrass Ladakhis. Don't share utensils when eating or drinking or dip your used ones into the serving dish. If sharing a water bottle, learn how to drink without your lips touching it.

• Respect religious customs - When visiting monasteries it is particularly important that you wear appropriate clothes, take off your shoes or boots before entering the temple, don't smoke, don't touch any religious objects and always remember to give a small donation. The larger monasteries now charge an entrance fee to make sure you don't forget. If you want to photograph the frescoes inside monasteries, bring a tripod or some fast film; don't use a flash as this can damage the paintwork. Religious festivals are sacred occasions and you will upset many local people if you wander around taking photographs while the dances are going on. Recently, masked dances have been performed outside monasteries as a tourist attraction, especially during the Ladakh Festival. This is considered deeply sacrilegious and you should express your disapproval by not supporting such an exploitation of religion and by complaining to the relevant organisers. Always walk to the left of Buddhist monuments (chortens, mani walls, prayer wheels) by keeping them on your right. Prayer wheels should be turned in a clockwise direction. Don't sit or leave your pack on mani walls or chortens and never move mani stones.

• Respect people's privacy - Ladakhis get just as annoyed by people peering into their lives as you do. Always put yourself in their position, especially before taking someone's photograph. It is a common courtesy to ask for permission before taking a shot and if they don't want their photo taken please respect this. Don't pay people for posing for you. It is much better to take down their address and send them a copy instead. Pony-men, and others that you spend some time with, may also ask you to send them copies of the photos you've taken of them. It is a cardinal sin not to follow this obligation through; it costs you very little and means a great deal to those at the receiving end.

• Be modest with your wealth - However poor you think you are at home, by Ladakhi standards you are very wealthy. Don't flaunt this wealth by showing off your hi-tech equipment. Leaving it lying around unattended is further proof that you could easily afford to replace it.

• Discourage begging - Begging in Ladakh started as a children's game to see if they could get a 'bon-bon' or 'school pen' from the always obliging tourists. However, it has developed into a far more serious problem by fostering an attitude of dependency among the young. Don't give anything to people who ask for it, after all, giving sweets to children in a country which has few dentists is not an act of charity; if you want to give money it's best to ask the advice of one of the excellent NGOs working in Ladakh (see p132) as to whom it should be given.

• Don't play doctor - While trekking you may occasionally be asked by locals for medicines or to treat wounds. Unless it is simply a case of cleaning a cut and applying a plaster you should encourage them to go to the nearest health post. There is usually one in larger villages. If you try to treat something more complicated and your efforts do not work, you may begin to undermine the people's faith in Western medicine. This will encourage them to patronise the local shaman rather than the health post.

• Keep your sense of humour - It is considered the height of bad manners to lose your temper, and something you will almost never see a Ladakhi do. Although things can sometimes be very difficult, always try to maintain some perspective on the situation. You are not at home but in a land where things are done differently and where concepts of time are simply different from your own. See the funny side of your predicament; there will always be one.

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